A steady hand may be required here so you’re careful not to hit the sides or you might damage your model… Oh and be wary of your model flying off the cork for the same reason (hopefully you secured it well).Īfter 20 – 30 seconds of this, you can stop the spinning. Pull the trigger on your drill, your model should start spinning in the jar, and centrifugal force will carry the excess shade from your model and collect on the sides.
Then carefully raise your model out of the quickshade and lower it into your empty jar. Try to not go so deep that you overflow the base, but make sure the whole model is submerged. Then, holding your drill, dip the model carefully into the (pre-shaken) Quickshade. Why they didn’t chose a more obvious set of names I do not know, but hey, never mind. It also comes in darktone, which is black to you and me.
Quickshade comes in three shades, light tone, which is for shading light colours, strong tone, which is like a dark brown similar to Citadel Agrax Earthshade (basically, use this on 99% of all things). This is good because it allows you to literally dip your models into it (more on this later). It comes in a traditional house paint tin containing 250 ml, the tin is a good 2 or 3 inches tall and wide. Which is especially great if you’re using it on metal models, or plaster of Paris castings! I’ve also found that the quickshade acts as a pretty robust varnish too. As the name implies, it allows you to quickly apply shade to the recesses of your model. Quickshade dip is best imagined as alternative to a traditional wash. I should also let you know that at time of writing I have only used Quickshade strongtone. Today I’ll be talking about my experiences with quickshade, telling you how I’ve found it to work, some things to avoid, some things to definitely do, and some expectation management.
Quickshade ink set how to#
Welcome to another post in my How to series!
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